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Ben, I would cut the back side of the plasterboard in about 1"-2" segments to easely bend it. 🙂

 

Greetings from Germany
Henrik

LV since v3.1

“ground” is a convenient fantasy

'˙˙˙˙uıɐƃɐ lɐıp puɐ °06 ǝuoɥd ɹnoʎ uɹnʇ ǝsɐǝld 'ʎɹɐuıƃɐɯı sı pǝlɐıp ǝʌɐɥ noʎ ɹǝqɯnu ǝɥʇ'


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@Henrik_Volkers wrote:

Ben, I would cut the back side of the plasterboard in about 1"-2" segments to easely bend it. 🙂

 


To clarify, I believe our good friend means "Score" not cut.  (* Disclaimer, My German is much worse that Henrik's English)


"Should be" isn't "Is" -Jay
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@JÞB wrote:

@Henrik_Volkers wrote:

Ben, I would cut the back side of the plasterboard in about 1"-2" segments to easely bend it. 🙂

 


To clarify, I believe our good friend means "Score" not cut.  (* Disclaimer, My German is much worse that Henrik's English)


Thank you ... Yes, I'm continously improving my (D)English skills...  however, (not only) native speakers will always get a chance to smile 🙂 😄

 

Spoiler
But that's the good thing about such a community like the LV Forum, I have no fear to blame myself 😉

OMG,  this is in the internet now... ALL the world can see it 😄 😄
Greetings from Germany
Henrik

LV since v3.1

“ground” is a convenient fantasy

'˙˙˙˙uıɐƃɐ lɐıp puɐ °06 ǝuoɥd ɹnoʎ uɹnʇ ǝsɐǝld 'ʎɹɐuıƃɐɯı sı pǝlɐıp ǝʌɐɥ noʎ ɹǝqɯnu ǝɥʇ'


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Your English is just fine and I would not be able to tell if you did not share stories about Opera Houses and the like.

 

 

Re: Scoring

 

The stuff I have seen was telling me to saturate the back of the 1/4" drywall and let it soak in for 20 minutes or so before attempting to bend it into place. The water did not have much of a softening effect. The first piece was soaked for 20 minutes and we still got some small cracks. The second piece was soaked continually for an hour or more and I "pre-bent" it using the coving pieces as a gage. Still some small cracks. I think I will try the scoring of the back side at 1/2 spacing for the next piece, in addition to the soaking. For my purposes the minor cracks should not make much of a difference. By the time I do the drywall joint compound and then apply texture paint to achieve a simulated "sand" texture (Hobbit Holes were sandy according to JRR Tolkien) I do not think the small cracks will show. But for the sake of learning how to properly deal with curved drywall I would like to get better at it.

 

Ben

Retired Senior Automation Systems Architect with Data Science Automation LabVIEW Champion Knight of NI and Prepper LinkedIn Profile YouTube Channel
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@Henrik_Volkers wrote:

Ben, I would cut the back side of the plasterboard in about 1"-2" segments to easely bend it. 🙂

 


Since I am always interested in learning how to do thing better and receiving similar suggestions for multiple sources I gave the scoring try and lightly scored the 1/4" drywall at 1/2" intervals. "SCORED" not cut, mind you!

 

 

The sheetrock cracked along the score lines under it's own weight. Then once it was installed it looking like a roll-top desk with 14 or sore parallel cracks along every score line. I did not like that effect. It was on the first section, (the one that gets covered by the second layer that builds I out to 1/2" thick) so it was no harm.

 

But observing that the water soaked in much better along the score lines I formed the theory that the sheetrock I have may have some type of moisture resistant coating on the back side that was inhibiting absorbing the water. SO as experiment number 2, I used a hand saw blade drawn side-ways along the sheet to produce a lot of small scratches to  improve the water penetration.

 

 

That worked rather well and would have been even better if I had not place 2X4s on the edge of the sheet to start the curving. A crack developed as I was watching and in slow motion propagated along the length of the sheet.

 

 

That sheet installed nicely and both my wife and I agreed this was the best one we have doen so far.

 

 

 

I have a little bit I have to finish off to be done with the current phase of drywall work and then I will have to move water lines (yes shutting off water to the house is always a joy) and building a custom section of duct-work that will let me feed a 8" duct from the main duct while at the same time, staying out of the way of the cove work that will eventually cover the heating/cooling ducts. Sheet metal work is always fun! Success is measured not only in a finished task but also by the number of razor cuts one does NOT get while doing the work.

 

Thank you for feed-back and ideas so far. I do entertain options and will report findings.

 

Ben

Retired Senior Automation Systems Architect with Data Science Automation LabVIEW Champion Knight of NI and Prepper LinkedIn Profile YouTube Channel
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Ben: Reminds me on the trick to make a knot into a cigarette without braking it: Put the thin foil of the packet around it. (or bending a pipe with a spring*) 🙂

 

Transfer: After Waterboarding (you are US, and your president seems to find that OK) the plasterboard fix a (here stronger) foil on the outer side. Drying process will take longer with a plastic foil 😉 or use waterproof glue to add some strong paper on the outer side and soak it only from the inner side (takes longer) ...

 

*) the classical pipe bending trick is to fill it with sand, but you get size matched springs for bending....

Greetings from Germany
Henrik

LV since v3.1

“ground” is a convenient fantasy

'˙˙˙˙uıɐƃɐ lɐıp puɐ °06 ǝuoɥd ɹnoʎ uɹnʇ ǝsɐǝld 'ʎɹɐuıƃɐɯı sı pǝlɐıp ǝʌɐɥ noʎ ɹǝqɯnu ǝɥʇ'


Message 1496 of 2,258
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@Henrik_Volkers wrote:

Ben: Reminds me on the trick to make a knot into a cigarette without braking it: Put the thin foil of the packet around it. (or bending a pipe with a spring*) 🙂

 

Transfer: After Waterboarding (you are US, and your president seems to find that OK) the plasterboard fix a (here stronger) foil on the outer side. Drying process will take longer with a plastic foil 😉 or use waterproof glue to add some strong paper on the outer side and soak it only from the inner side (takes longer) ...

 

*) the classical pipe bending trick is to fill it with sand, but you get size matched springs for bending....


I put some thought into what you shared Henrik. What may be a viable option for me is to use a thin sheet of PVC similar to what is used in "plastic Surrounds" used in showers. Just a thin sheet large enough to cover the back-side while it is soaking and when I initially form it to the curve. I hope the stiffness of the sheet will inhibit cracks and help producer a uniform curve.

 

After the initial shaping, remove the sheet and drywall and then install the drywall and complete the final (hopefully minor) bending.

 

Now all I have to do is locate one of those sheets without having to purchase a shower surround... I wonder if I have one in my garage...? The pack-rat in me will never go away if it turns out I do. Smiley Wink

 

Ben

Retired Senior Automation Systems Architect with Data Science Automation LabVIEW Champion Knight of NI and Prepper LinkedIn Profile YouTube Channel
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I've got one in my bathroom that needs to come out....

....(next project after the kitchen's done)

 

Soffit-ectomy on both sides...

 

 

Knocked out the appliance-side soffit last weekend.  L-shaped hole is from previous owners who ... while handy, weren't handymen.  Romex for the range hood is stapled to the stud at the top of the L, needed go at the bottom of the L.  So they beat the sheetrock with a hammer to clear out a slot to pull that wire through.  Smiley Frustrated

 

Duplex outlet installed, over-the-range microwave will plug into that.  Another coat or two of mud on this side before kilz, then I need to get cabinets figured out and on order.

During that lead-time, the floor's coming out... all of it... new subfloor, lay tile on that. 

Kitchen can stay like this till snowmo season's over with.

 

All done teaching classes for the year.  Couple more events coming up, few more races (Cross-country) before the season's over...

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@SnowMule wrote:

I've got one in my bathroom that needs to come out....

....(next project after the kitchen's done)

  

Knocked out the appliance-side soffit last weekend.  L-shaped hole is from previous owners who ... while handy, weren't handymen.  Romex for the range hood is stapled to the stud at the top of the L, needed go at the bottom of the L.  So they beat the sheetrock with a hammer to clear out a slot to pull that wire through.  Smiley Frustrated

 

....


 

 

I had one of those as well!

 

 

My better half thought it was scary.

 

Ben

Retired Senior Automation Systems Architect with Data Science Automation LabVIEW Champion Knight of NI and Prepper LinkedIn Profile YouTube Channel
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I am sharing these two photos as a an "After and Before" set of images.

 

After finishing the drywall hanging ...

 

 

and before starting the NEXT challenge.

 

That last sorta reminds of an old spoof on This Old House" where Norm Abrams opens a linen closet and starts to explain that he "will be taking out the shelves and installing a formal ballroom" or the Far Side cartoon with the scientist in front of a black board with covered with cyphers and in cloud in the center "and then a miracle occurs". 

 

Keeping the wife happy and staying off of the streets...

 

Ben

Retired Senior Automation Systems Architect with Data Science Automation LabVIEW Champion Knight of NI and Prepper LinkedIn Profile YouTube Channel
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